Dying Tree: Remove Now or Wait?

If the tree has dead branches, peeling bark, or a lean that appeared after a storm, remove it now. Waiting to see if it recovers is a gamble with your house, car, or fence as the stake.

Here is the short version:

• A tree with more than 50% dead crown is unlikely to recover and is a falling hazard.
• A tree with dead branches only on one side may be savable if the cause is a disease that can be treated.
• If the trunk is cracked, hollow, or leaning , removal is the only safe option.

This article walks you through the signs that say remove now, the signs that say wait, and what to do in each case.

A tree is dying when more than half of its canopy is dead, when it loses leaves at the wrong time of year for two seasons in a row, or when the trunk shows cracks, cavities, or fungal growth. A tree that is simply stressed by drought or a recent transplant may drop leaves but still has live buds and flexible branches.

To tell the difference, do a simple scratch test. Use a knife to scrape a small patch of bark off a branch. If the layer underneath is green and moist, that branch is alive. If it is brown and dry, that branch is dead. Check several branches around the canopy. If most are dead, the tree is not coming back.

Other signs that point to death rather than stress:

• Large sections of bark falling off, revealing bare wood underneath.
• Mushrooms or conks growing on the trunk or at the base, which indicate internal rot.
• Fine, sawdust-like material at the base, a sign of insect infestation that has hollowed out the wood.
• A sudden lean, especially if the soil at the base is cracked or heaving.

If you see any of these, the tree is not going to leaf out next spring and should be removed before it falls.

A tree with less than 25% dead canopy can often recover if you address the cause. Dead branches can be pruned away, and the tree may leaf out again the following year. But a tree that is 50% or more dead is past the point of saving.

The key is to find out why it is dying. Common causes in the Asheville area include:

• Drought stress, which shows as leaves browning from the edges inward. Deep watering during dry spells can help.
• Root damage from construction, which shows as dieback on one side of the canopy. There is no cure, but the tree may live for years with reduced vigor.
• A disease like anthracnose or oak wilt, which may be treatable with fungicide if caught early.

If you want to try to save a partly dead tree, have an arborist inspect it. Ask what is causing the dieback and whether treatment is likely to work. Some diseases, like oak wilt, are fatal and spread to nearby oaks, so removal may be the responsible choice to protect the rest of your trees.

If you decide to wait, set a deadline. Mark your calendar for next spring. If the tree does not leaf out fully by mid-May, it is not recovering, and you should schedule removal before the next storm season.

Yes. A dying tree can fall on a neighbor's property, a sidewalk, a power line, or a person. Even if the tree is at the back of your lot, a large branch can break off and land on a fence, a shed, or a child playing underneath.

The danger depends on the tree's size, the target below it, and the type of failure. A tree that is rotting from the inside can snap at the base without warning. A tree with a split crotch can drop one side of its canopy in a light breeze. A dead tree is weakest in a storm, and Asheville gets its share of thunderstorms and occasional ice.

Consider this: a mature oak can weigh several tons. Even a 12-inch diameter branch can crush a car. The cost of removing a tree is far less than the cost of repairing a roof or, worse, paying a medical bill.

If the tree is in a wooded area with no target within reach, you may be able to leave it standing. Dead trees provide habitat for birds and insects. But if there is any chance it will hit something when it falls, removal is the safer call.

Tree removal is the process of cutting the tree down in sections, lowering each piece with ropes, and grinding the stump if you choose. The cost depends on the tree's height, diameter, location, and how much access the crew has. No one can give you a number without seeing the tree.

Here is what drives the price:

• Size: A 30-foot tree is cheaper to remove than an 80-foot tree because it requires less climbing and smaller equipment.
• Location: A tree close to your house, power lines, or a fence requires careful rigging to avoid damage, which takes more time and skill.
• Access: If the crew can drive a truck and crane right up to the tree, it is easier than carrying equipment through a narrow gate and over a lawn.
• Stump removal: Grinding the stump below grade adds to the cost. Leaving the stump costs less but leaves a tripping hazard.

To get an accurate quote, ask a removal company to visit and measure the tree. Ask what is included: do they haul away the wood? Do they clean up the debris? Do they grind the stump? Ask for the quote in writing before any work begins.

Removal is not a DIY job. A professional crew has the training and equipment to take down a tree safely. Trying to cut down a large tree yourself can end with the tree landing on you or your house.

You should not remove a tree taller than 15 feet yourself. Cutting down a large tree involves directional felling, which requires knowledge of the tree's lean, the wind, and the weight distribution of the canopy. A mistake can cause the tree to fall in the wrong direction, with serious consequences.

Even smaller trees can be dangerous if they are near structures or power lines. A branch under tension can spring back and hit you. A chainsaw kickback can cause a severe injury. The risk is not worth the money you might save.

If you are set on doing it yourself, at least follow these steps:

• Check for overhead power lines. If the tree is within 10 feet of a line, call the utility company. They may remove it for free or require a professional.
• Clear the fall zone of people, pets, and property.
• Make a horizontal cut on the side you want the tree to fall, then a diagonal cut to form a notch. The tree will fall toward the notch.
• Make the back cut slightly above the notch, leaving a hinge of wood to guide the fall.
• Stand back and watch the tree fall. Do not turn your back on it.

But again, this is not advice to do it yourself. We strongly recommend hiring a professional for any tree that is taller than a single-story house or that is close to a building.

If you are reading this because you have a dying tree, here is a simple triage:

• Watch: The tree has less than 25% dead branches, no cracks, no lean, and no fungal growth. Water it during dry spells and monitor it for a year.
• Soon: The tree has 25-50% dead canopy, or you see small cracks in the trunk. Have an arborist assess it within the next few months. It may be treatable, but it is on the decline.
• Now: The tree has more than 50% dead canopy, a large crack, a hollow trunk, or a lean that appeared recently. Remove it before the next storm. Call a removal company this week.

If you are in the Asheville area and need a tree removed, call us at (828) 555-0142. We will inspect the tree, explain what we see, and give you a written estimate.